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Home Depot does not sell horizontal tanks, which are much easier to work with than vertical tanks since the connection is easily accessed on the side instead of buried underneath which also binds your plumbing between the feet of the tank making it next to impossible to replace a tank without destroying your existing plumbing and rebuilding it. You'd think the home handiman store, HD, would stock the easier for laymen to work with version?!?This tank was $20 cheaper than its vertical counterpart at HD, the shipping was free and there was no tax (another $10 savings)...luckily I was in a position to wait for it to be delivered (during which time I secured the necessary plumbing from HD.The only CON I had was that the most important specification, the pipe fitting size was missing from the info and the instructions, so I had to guess...luckily I had an unused (wasted money) 1" female to 1" female ball valve which was perfect to attach to the tank so that if I had to replace the pump at a later date, I could 'trap' a supply of water in the tank that could be later used to prime the new pump...cool...this was also fortuitous since HD does not stock the 1"threaded female to 1"female adapter that this tank need for a direct connection to 1" piping (male-threaded yes...which I had plenty of already)I already had an almost new pressure gauge in-line so all I needed to do was remove the old broken-bladder tank and cap off that 'run' with a 1" to 3/4"threaded cap and a 3/4" spigot (to bleed the system before sending the water homeward).I used the cold-water pressure relief valve (that HD no longer sells and are relatively expensive) from the old tank plumbing in my new plumbing (saving that cost as well), added another 3/4" spigot and plumbed it out, up, and back to the pump using a 1"1"1" T, and cutting into the vertical connection from the pump let me tighten it's connection back down before sealing the T in-line. It's actually quite fun doing this, like playing with tinkertoys (maybe I should get myself some tinkertoys).So for the do-it-yourself newby plumber here's an even more detailed description of what you need:Don't forget to bleed the necessary air out of the tank (I think that's why my last tank failed prematurely), this increases the tanks capacity and therefore saves your pump from unnecessary runs.You can mount your pump on top of this tank (some plumbers don't like this, however I'd recommend it)You need a roll of white Thread Sealing Tape (no sticky, just a thin white elastic tape)You need a can of purple primer...it perfectly cleans your piping and prepares it for the cementYou need a can of Regular PVC cement (Oatey gold can)You need a PVC pipe cutter...if yours is old, used and rusted consider a new one for a cleaner straighter cut.As I recommended above, control your tank with a 1"Ft x 1"Ft ball valve ("F" for female, "t" for threaded)Cover the 1" male tank threading with about 3 layers of Thread Sealing Tape in the same direction as the threading (clockwise) then attach the ball valve as tight as it will go then a little further to bring the valve around to the side.Put Thread Sealing Tape on the 1"Mt x 1"F and tighten that in as tight as possible to the other end of the ball valveTighten to the point that your other connection just begins to move.Prime one end of a small piece of 1" pvc pipe and the above adapter then glue both and insert pipe turning, hold for a bit......NEVER use the (cheaper) thin sprinkler pipe us the thicker PVC...the glue sets pretty quick, although with a pressure system you're best waiting an hour before turning on the pump...always prime and glue both connection points (warning purple primer is VERY staining)...use ample glue and be SURE you don't miss a spot...be messyfrom here you will need a couple of elbows and a T to get back to the pump and connect inline.after my first elbow up from the piping above I incorporated TWO 1"F x 1"F x 3/4"Ft Ts...One) I Thread Taped my cold-water pressure valve into (spraying upward...I figured if there was an over-pressure situation it might be from the pump running away and subsequently overheating, and maybe some spraying water might keep it from overheating some and save its life, if I catch it before it burns up)Two) I Thread Taped another 3/4" spigot inline (I'd used another one to cap off the old run to the old tank)...I recommend bronze spigots, since plastic ones (handles) have a tendency to become brittle in the sun and break.I cut the pump discharge pipe in the middle, then cut 1" more from it to make room for the Tplumbed in the T using a 'dummy' pipe to line it up with my tank plumbingThen carefully cut the dummy pipe to line up with the top Land then plumbed the top L from the tank to the T at the pumplet it set for a couple of hours(note: I've successfully NOT let it set at all with no leaks, but I just feel better giving the glue a good chance to completely dry in the absence of water)then opened the valves (don't open the valve to the house, if you have one)Turn on the pumpOpen one or both of the 3/4" spigots to clean out the loosened scum, glue and primer residue, and tank 'chemicals'turn off your 3/4" spigots to test the tank/pump to be sure it fills and the pump turns offOpen 3/4" spigot to be sure the pump comes back on after the tank empties.Quick delivery easy to installThere is a black plug in the inlet line. And no info about it in the manual! But other than that it seems to be ok for now! I only have used it a few days so far!Update 10/13/2021:It's definitely a goner; the precharge refill lasted about 2 months. Ordered an Amtrol unit at almost twice the cost, but it has a longer warranty. I don't need to be doing this operation every 4 years.====================================================================================This is an update to the review below that I wrote in 2017. It appears the tank is good for about 4 years, although warrantied for 5. The replacement unit I received in 2017 is now apparently a goner (unit manufactured in 07/2017). Was wondering why the pump was cycling in an odd manner and when I checked the precharge - "0", zip, nada. I charged it back up and we'll see, but I suspect I will be needing another new tank. Will have to do some research on other brands. Although the customer service was excellent last time, I doubt they'll send me another one under warranty and frankly I do not want to have to do this every 4 years regardless.=======================================================================================2017Well, I have to start out saying we have had this tank installed for just over 3 1/2 years; it is warrantied for 5 years. Unfortunately it has apparently developed a leak in the bladder/diaphragm because I have to recharge the preset every two weeks or so.BUT, I give it 5 stars because of the outstanding customer service. I phoned in and talked to a very nice lady in the warranty department and they are sending a replacement tank this week. No complicated forms, no having to send the bad tank in before being replaced (what a nightmare THAT would have been), no loopholes or caveats in the warranty. What pleasure in this day of dwindling customer service excellence!So Far So Good. 1 Month in.Tank arrived on time and in good condition. Pump mounting plate worked well even though i had to modify it slightly to fit my current plumbing configuration and tight installation quarters. I did not want to change any of the 1.5" galvanized supply line, other than splitting it at the coupling, so in order to get my pump to line up, i had to elongate two of the holes on the mounting plate to bolt my pump in.Other than that non common issue stated above, the thank works well. i set it on two concrete blocks that I pre-leveled and adjusted for the required height to meet my existing plumbing. I did verify and slightly adjust the charge to be 2psi less than the kick on pressure of my switch.One last insight I will leave you with - under the shipping cap on the 1" nipple, there is a two pronged plastic clip that is inserted into the nipple from the inside of the tank. I was unsure if this was for shipping or was a functional piece. After calling Pentair, the company who makes Water Worker, I was informed this is indeed functional and should be left in place. It keeps the bladder from protruding through the nipple when there is no water pressure on the system. Your threaded coupler will thread right over it with no issue. Be sure to clean the threads and use a good quality Teflon or my personal go-to is RectorSeal #5 pipe thread sealant.I would use this tank again, or one of its appropriately sized counterparts for the project at hand.